Tracey Macleod says it's a case of right chef, wrong restaurant at former Roux Scholar and National Chef of the Year Steve Love's eponymous restaurant in Birmingham.
The Independent's food critic adds that Loves is a contradiction of a restaurant, in which location, design, food and atmosphere are all pulling in different directions. While she adores Love's inventive and complex cooking, Macleod says there's a lot more to a great restaurant than this.
"There should be glamour and mystery, flirtation and cosseting, indulgence and adventure. All of which is almost impossible to achieve in a corner unit in a new-build development in Birmingham's deserted canal district," she says.
The Sunday Times' AA Gill reviews Polpetto, the tiny sister restaurant to the hugely popular Polpo in London's Soho. But while he says the atmosphere is nice, the room buzzes and the restaurant's heart is in the right place, he finds the food pretty disappointing.
Writing in The Guardian, John Lanchester admits to being a huge fan of the Canton Arms in south London, where he loves the ingredient-driven and flavourful British food; while The Observer's Jay Rayner likes the excellent food at new "carbon neutral" vegetarian restaurant Otarian in London but finds its grand eco claims very hard to swallow.
The Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams says that although the Red Fort in London may not be the hottest hangout, she doesn't care too much because the curries are fantastic.
By Kerstin Kühn
E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.
If you have something to say on this story or anything else join the debate at Table Talk - Caterer's new networking forum. Go to www.caterersearch.com/tabletalk
Looking for a new job? Find your next job here with Caterersearch.com jobs