The Sunday Times’ Rod Liddle fears, from looks alone on arrival, that the Vineyard at Stockcross in Newbury, Berkshire, is the sort of place “I’m going to want to punch the sommelier”.
Although things aren’t much more promising in the anteroom to the restaurant –summoning up images of a Hayley Street surgery – “these first impressions are misleading”, says the critic, sitting in for AA Gill.
On making it into the restaurant proper, Liddle avoids resorting to violence and instead concedes that the Vineyard is in fact “very good”, as is the service, although the prices are somewhat harsh on the wallet.
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By Chris Druce
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