The Marquess, Islington, London

You've got to hand it to Huw Gott and Will Beckett: they're not yet 30 and they've done rather well.

Their first place, Redchurch - in Shoreditch, east London - is ticking over nicely. Their second, Green & Red, also in Shoreditch (and with the best tortillas outside Mexico), scooped the London Evening Standard's Best Bar award in May. Their new pub, the Marquess Tavern, in Islington, north London, has been shortlisted for this year's Time Out magazine Best Gastropub award.

They've just opened their fourth place, a humdinger of a bar called Hawksmoor, in Spitalfields, east London. And they have a consultancy called Underdog whose first project, the Hideaway in Kentish Town, north London, is scheduled to open in September.

There's something interesting on all the drinks lists. At Redchurch, they have 30-odd beers; Green & Red has a Tequila obsession; Hawksmoor's cocktail list has been shaped by legendary bartender Nick Strangeway, who manages the place (punch is huge here); and the Marquess has a gastropub list with knobs on, with interesting beers, wines and whiskies.

The Marquess reopened its doors in April this year. Just off the Essex Road, it was once a grotty boozer, but has been throughly converted and features fresh white walls, polished wood panels and the now-ubiquitious mismatched chairs.

Not that Gott and Beckett have alienated the regulars. Many have stayed on and now peer, slightly bemused, as the new clientele of Converse-wearing Islingtonites tuck into the likes of potted shrimps and devilled whitebait.

The menu is resolutely British - home-made pork pie and pickles, Lancashire hotpot, faggots and peas, and gooseberry fool, for instance - so it's no surprise to find that chef Paul Hayes did time at Fergus Henderson's St John restaurant and cites Jane Grigson as a major inspiration.

There's still plenty of beer being drunk - a large space around the bar is kept for the boozers, and there's plenty of beer to choose from. As well as the 40 or so
bottled varieties - such as a few from Meantime, Fraoch Heather Ale, St Peter's Lemon and Ginger, Anchor Steam and Koestritzer black lager - there are also 40 whiskies and 30 wines, including some English ones.

There are eight of the latter on the list - three sparklers, three whites, a rosé and a sweet wine. "Reaction has been pretty good," says Gott. "The Camel Valley Bacchus, the Coleridge Hill and Camel Valley rosé are particularly popular, with Chapel Down's rather acidic Pinot Blanc dividing opinion."

He adds: "We didn't want to be a standard gastropub with a strong wine list but not much in the way of beer or whisky. And we want drinkers as well as eaters."

The Chapel Down Brut and the Ridgeview Brut Rosé are also selling well, served in old-fashioned Marie Antoinette-style Champagne cups. Both are often sold with the devilled whitebait.

Pairing suggestions are presented on giant blackboards in the dining room, but not just food with wine - beer and whisky are included. "The Compass Box Orangerie has been flying with our chocolate puddings," says Gott.

Indeed, the whiskies are selling better than expected, split by region and offered by the 25ml glass - Islay whiskies being the most popular at the moment. Gott says, however: "We didn't want to offer any expensive ones - we want customers to try different things. We want to educate."

Gott and Beckett have sprinkled the list with interesting wines, and half are offered by the glass, including a white from Santorini in Greece, an Albariño from Pazo de Señoráns, and a Sémillon from Bruce Jack in South Africa.

Gott says happily: "With the more unusual wines, we find that people will often try a glass then order a bottle the next time they come in."

A selection from the list at the Marquess

• Chapel Down Brut NV, England, £6.50/£28
• Ridgeview Merret Fitzrovia Brut Rosé, England 2003, £32
• Pazo de Senorans Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain, £26
• Santorini 2005, Greece, £5.60/£19
• Jack & Knox Green on Green Semillon, South Africa, £25
• Flagstone Writers Block Pinotage, South Africa, £30
• Vin Santo, Santorini 1999, Greece, £4.50/£21
• Youngs Old Nick (barley wine), £3.80 (500ml)
• Fraoch Heather Ale, £3.50 (500ml)
• Meantime London Porter, £10.50 (750ml)
• Traquair House Ale, £4 (330ml)
• St Peters Lemon and Ginger, £3.50 (500ml)
• Monkey Shoulder, £2.80
• Compass Box Spice Tree, £3.40
• Mortlach 16-year-old, £4
• Ardbeg Very Young, £3.80
• Springbank 15-year-old, £4.80

The Marquess, 32 Canonbury Street, Islington, London N1 2TB.
Tel: 0871 332 5871
See a map of The Marquess here