Perfectly partnered

Thursday 28th April 1994 00:00

A FOOD and wine evening at West Suffolk College is one of two occasions featured this week where food and wine were matched with particular care. The details are worth passing on as they demonstrate a thoughtful approach to such pairings. Each course was matched to its own wine, with an explanation of the choices.

Savoury anchovy straws, lightly flavoured with anchovy were accompanied by Bourgogne Aligote de Bouzeron (de Villaine). An Aligote with rich fruit and roundness, it retained the refreshing dry character and acidity of this wine.

The savoury egg custards, with flakes of smoked haddock, were served warm. Partnered by Hillebrand Chardonnay; a buttery wine with attractive ripeness, it was barrel-aged to match the smoked haddock. Bramley and apple brandy crystals are a refreshing granite made using Bramley apples and a pomme au cognac from Maison Lheraud.

The seam-butchered haunch of venison was cooked pink and served on a celeriac rosti, with a rich game sauce using a reduction of red wine vinegar and Cumberland sauce. This was matched with Chƒteau de Lamarque, which had a spicy, new-oak nose, rich fruit and some tannin. It was a young wine to serve, but worked well with the main course - it was opened two hours before service.

The mature cheddar soufflé was accompanied by Gewrtztraminer Bollenberg. The walnut and almond pastries, a variation of the Turkish dish, baklava, were made with filo pastry and nuts, soaked with an orange flower water syrup. Cossart Gordon Madeira; rich and honeyed, was a good partner for the nuts and syrup in the dish.

Earl Grey tea was served to refresh the palate, after a dinner served with five wines.

The second menu featured here, sent from Royal Lytham St Annes GolfClub set out to offer distinctive flavours in each course with local wine expert John Dunkerley giving a commentary. For the first course, crisply-fried chicken livers were served on a salad of radicchio and diced beetroot, with diced potatoes, spring onions, blanched French beans and chopped chives. The dressing included raspberry purée, raspberry and tarragon vinegar and Dijon mustard.

The main course was loin of lamb with a crust of breadcrumbs, garlic, parsley and rosemary, placed on a bed of lentils and served with jus infused with rosemary. Parmentier potatoes, turned carrots and swedes, glazed shallots and batons of courgettes accompanied. Tasty Lancashire, a mature version of this excellent crumbly, buttery cheese, is one of the best varieties for partnering good red wines. o

lThe winner of February's Premier Brands Foodservice menu of the month is Number Twenty-four, Wymondham, Norfolk. The restaurant receives £100-worth of Premier Brands products, and is entered for the Menu of the Year Award.

WEST SUFFOLK COLLEGE

Bury St. Edmunds

Aperitif

Savoury anchovy straws. Bourgogne Aligote de Bouzeron (de Villaine) 1992

Smoked haddock creams with lemon dressed leaves. Hillebrand Chardonnay Canada 1990

Bramley and apple brandy crystals

Roasted cushion of venison with a rich game sauce, set on a celeriac rosti. Chƒteau de Lamarque, Haut-Médoc, 1990

Gould's Somerset mature Cheddar soufflé Gewrtztraminer Bollenber (Theo Cattin) 1991

Walnut and almond pastries soaked in orange-scented syrup. Cossart Gordon, five-year-old Malmsley madeira

Earl Grey tea

OCCASION: Food and wine evening, 10 February 1994

WINES: Corney and Barrow

COVERS: 44

COST: £17.50 including wines

CHEF/LECTURER: Paul Harding with Year 2 Professional Catering Students (NVQ Level 2)

FOOD AND WINE SERVICE LECTURER: Neil Courtier with Year 2 Professional Catering Students (NVQ Level 2) and Year 2 BTEC National Diploma students

ROYAL LYTHAM ST ANNES GOLF CLUB

Lytham St Annes

Aperitif: Bouvet Brut nv, with a dash of Framboise

Warm salad of chicken livers with raspberry vinaigrette. Inglenook Sauvignon Blanc, 1991

Carrot and caraway soup with leek and onion savoury scones. Valdespino Tio Diego, Fine Old Dry Amontillado Sherry

Salmon and sole terrine with a watercress sauce. Tokay Pinot Gris Alsace, 1992

Spring lamb on a bed of Puys lentils with a persillage crust and a rosemary jus. Chƒteau de Grezan Faugers, 1990

Farmhouse Lancashire tasty with celery and biscuits Chƒteau de listours, 1990

Whole pear poached in syrup with a chocolate mousse-filled brandy snap. Muscat De St Jean De Minervois

Coffee and chocolates

OCCASION: Gourmet evening, 19 February 1994

CATERERS: Gardner Merchant

COVERS: 50

COST: £15 for the meal, £7.50 for the wines and aperitif

HEAD CHEF: Andrew Gregson

CHEFS: David Whittam and Jim Lyons

MAITRE D' HOTEL: Melanie Hudson with Mark Donnelly, Stephen Fryer and Doreen Hill

BAR MANAGER: Stuart Wright

HOUSE MANAGER: Andrew Stansfield


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