French restaurant Medlar in London's Chelsea is reviewed twice this weekend, with AA Gill and John Walsh both agreeing that the food offer is excellent.
In the Sunday Times, Gill says that despite hideously bright light fittings the food is surprisingly good and offer great value. "The food is really unexpectedly good, and at £25 for three courses, for a lunch of this quality, the best value anywhere in Chelsea, which almost makes up for the lights," he says.
Meanwhile, writing in the Independent, John Walsh is equally impressed by Medlar but finds something constrained and buttoned-up, dainty and polite about both the food and service. "One can take formality too far," he says.
The London Evening Standard's longstanding restaurant critic, Fay Maschler, reviews Roganic, Simon Rogan's two-year pop-up restaurant in London's Marylebone where a tasting menu is available only. She says: "Ten courses at £80 (despite intrinsically low food costs) seems too much money and too much time spent, though the kitchen will presumably speed up as it beds in more firmly."
The Sunday Telegraph's food critic, Zoe Williams, is underwhelmed by French bistro Chabrot. While it looks authentic and tastes authentic, a meal at the Knightsbridge restaurant is not entirely convincing, she says.
Finally, the Observer's Jay Rayner says global menu all too often ends up as a mess on the plate but Anna Hansen at the Modern Pantry makes it a virtue.
By Kerstin Kühn
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